Tuesday, July 11, 2006

I could write about the global significance of terrorism, but I cannot get my mind to step back and take the dispassionate bird's eye view this requires. Why? Because I am angry, I am furious - and my anger is aimed at the "government" of India. The terrorists are the enemy, these actions are what we expect of them. But the ones who let us down today are the same ones who let us down each time - those who are supposed to protect us. Let me tell you quite honestly, I am sick of hearing about the "spirit of Mumbai" and the "resilience of Mumbaikars". Those threadbare platitudes have worn thin.

The first time I heard these phrases was 13 years ago, when Dawood's henchmen set off serial bomb blasts at various sites of economic and symbolic significance in Mumbai. There were images of stockbrokers pulling bodies out of the Bombay stock exchange; commandeering private vehicles to take the injured to hospitals; working tirelessly and willingly to help their colleagues and business rivals. The next time I visited Bombay, I saw a billboard that said : March 12, 1993 : serial bomb blasts rock Bombay. March 13, 1993 : 99% attendance in offices. Salaam Bombay! That brought tears to my eyes. There was no questioning the strong, resilient spirit of Bombay.

Last year, Bombay suffered through an unprecedented torrent of rain - 37 inches in 24 hours. More than a thousand people died. Millions, literally millions, were stranded - in offices, on train stations, on the road, in buses. I anxiously followed the story over that modern marvel, the internet. The horror stories poured in, but they were drowned out by the inspiring stories that came out. The whole city came together in this moment of crisis, and formed one gigantic volunteer organization. Everybody from slum dwellers in rags to middle class moms lined the roads to help stranded travellers trekking home through miles of flooded streets. Some brought food and water to the exhausted travellers, others pointed out dangerous patches in the road and recommended safer paths. Many helped trapped passengers escape from buses and cars, some even opened their homes so the commuters could rest and freshen up before continuing the long journey. Web sites created impromptu information centers; message boards on which people posted and sought information; contacted concerned family members, I even remember a news site organizing a citizen rescue operation after they got a desperate call for help from a stranded passenger on a double decker bus. Truly, the "spirit of Mumbai" was in full force, it was an awe inspiring display of comradeship and humanity.

So then what am I complaining about? Let me tell you.. the reports today said that upto 30 mins after the bomb blasts, no police were on the scene. Passengers on the trains, volunteers, were dragging bodies out of the wreckage, were bundling injured people off to hospitals in rickshaws. It is wonderful that they did it - but it is atrocious that they had to! Ofcourse I understand that such a situation would overwhelm any city's infrastructure, nor do I blame the police or firemen. They have the same "spirit" as everyone else in Bombay and they did the best they could with the tools they have. But their best is just not good enough. When will we wake up and smell the sewage? Roads riddled with potholes, dams bursting, emergency services that take half an hour to respond to an emergency (not to mention a "disaster relief agency" that couldnt convene because of the disaster)? And this is the most modern, richest city in India! So much for India Shining.

The wonderful Mumbaikars come together in extraordinary displays of courage and selflessness because they know they have to. They know the system can't be relied on, they know the disaster relief is a joke. They know if they don't step up and help, no one will. And so they take on all those roles the government has abdicated - rescue workers, emergency services, ambulance drivers. Then they pick up the pieces and go home - and watch the politicians praise their "resilience" on TV. Enough resilience, enough going on with life as usual. How about some outrage? How about stopping and saying that things are different, life isnt the same? The crux of a democracy is accountability - if we let the politicians act like nothing's happened, they will. We have to put our collective foot down and demand action. Two hundred of us were killed - in a cowardly act of terrorism. We want the culprits brought to justice, the real culprits, not some low level stool pigeons. Stop taking things lying down - enough is enough. Say that Mumbai is done tolerating - it wants justice!